I was twisting and turning when I read Vogue’s review of Bouchra Jarrar. See: “Bouchra Jarrar is an exceptional creature indeed: one of the very few French talents to have emerged in the past few seasons, and certainly the only woman.” I beg to differ. Look at this collection, supposedly a couture collection. Call me a murderer, but this collection would feel more at home in a Hennes & Mauritz shop-at-home catalogue, rather than in couture sphere. After ten years as Nicolas Ghesquière’s assistant at Balenciaga, Jarrar worked for Christian Lacroix before his business failed, and then decided it was time to speak up for herself. Working with such talents, one would think she had some more brains, than to create a cheap, texture-less, boring, collection of immense failure. I will agree with Vogue when it comes to her pedigree in a seamstress point of view, her seams are good, but how can that account for the shapeless, but practical designs.
“Force, elegance, and continuity,” is how she described a collection in which she added pantsuits in English menswear-tailoring fabric and knitwear to her growing line of dresses—what Vogue calls, and I quote “the sort of thing which carries that inimitably Parisian quiet sence of quality and good taste.” Please tell me, when did Parisian style become that of H&M? Please… Another quote: “She branched into more color and pattern, injecting shots of electric blue and black-and-white stripes to the monochrome palette she began with.” Yet again, please… She never left the ways of monochrome designs. She does not belong to the realm of the new generation of modern luxury.
If you read this, Bouchra, I’m sorry to be frank, but someone has to. Either you sit down with yourself to figure out a new way of thinking, or you’ve got nothing in this industry to contribute with. Maybe H&M needs a ned head designer. You’d ace it.Read More