— The Fashionista

Fashion Week

So, I’m off the coast of Africa for two weeks, and I decided to do a post on what to wear on the beach. Excuse my lingo, but fat german men with boobs and chavy british tourists aren’t exactly inspiring, but I’ve been trying to keep you posted as often as I possible can.

“Once in a while, out of the regular ready-to-wear cycle, Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel lead the fashion pack to a place of fantasia, a total-immersion experience where the meaning of “croisière’” is at its most glamorous.

“This is one of the most beautiful places in the world, no?” Lagerfeld said, sitting on a deck overlooking the Mediterranean Sea at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden Roc in Antibes, the playground of the rich since the 1920s, and the setting he chose to place “resort” back in one of its original settings on the French Riviera. “This hotel is flawlessly kept, and there is a different dress code here. One has to dress to match the yachts. It cannot be sloppy,” he remarked. “But I didn’t want to do anything retro. People have never had as much money here as they do at the moment, and this is about how to spend your money but spend it in style.”

As he spoke, the sun was setting, shedding a pink light over a pale-blue sea. “This is the time of day when you can tell real diamonds from fake,” Lagerfeld observed. “And here, they are real.”

The Chanel diamonds to which he was referring—shooting stars, feathers, and pins from the fine jewelry collection—were pinned liberally to the shoulders and necklines of narrow mimosa-yellow and lavender tweed suits, the vivid colors reminiscent of the early-blooming flowers to be seen in the South of France.

That was just for starters, though, for as the show progressed, it became one of Lagerfeld’s narratives, with girls seeming to be making their way up from the beach in swimsuits, covered up with Chanel jackets or black and white cashmere wraps, and moving along a garden runway. Kristen McMenamy was among the models—storming along and surrounded by men—in a kind of live trailer for the movie Lagerfeld was about to screen for more 300 guests at a party come nightfall.

And that’s where the serious reveling began. The film (starring McMenamy, Amanda Harlech, Anna Mouglalis, and a cast of Chanel friends) was a drama about inheritances, sparring ex-wives, house parties, casinos, and a soupçon of lesbianism. After that, the party continued with a set from Bryan Ferry, followed by dancing until sunrise among a crowd highly reluctant to wend its way back to reality.”-Vogue

Any woman planning to visit a resort at the same time that resort collections hit stores would be wise to check out Tomas Maier’s selection for Bottega Veneta. There are trunks-worth of elegant, escapist clothes: silky T-shirts in primitive stripes paired with pajama-style pants, lightweight safari-style jackets in canvas and silk, breezy sleeveless dresses in turquoise or hot pink. Then again, a minimalist might argue that all she would need in her carryon is the sophisticated bandeau swimsuit in a subtle brown print with matching cardigan plus maybe the thin belt with tiger shell closure, and away she flies.

There are options, too, for the woman who prefers to stick closer to home in the winter. “Bright color can lift you up when the city is sad and melancholic,” Maier says, holding up a magenta shift with a few slightly unfinished ruffles down the front. “You’d just wear this with a coat on top.” (The double-breasted jacket in iridescent leather would be a good choice.) Or add tights, he suggests, to his heavy silk, pale taupe dress. Not rocket science, surely, but it shows that Maier is aware that the fantasy of fashion must sometimes acknowledge the practicality of reality. “It’s buy now, wear now,” he says.

The same goes for accessories, and Maier’s offerings here are as strong as ever. (If you ever wondered how many ways there are to weave leather, he’s the person to ask.) The bags come big or small, in a mix of leather and rope, or treated so that when it’s crunched, the shape stays. Squishing the side of a brown tote, he says, “If something’s not worn in, it doesn’t look like it belongs to the girl.”-Vogue
Chanel and Bottega were my favorite 2012 resort collections. Earthly tones, texture, simple, yet so elegant and expressing. Chin, chin, bottoms up, wherever you are, there is never an excuse to look like a damn fool. Ugly is free, but good feels so much better. And remember, nothing looks as good, as skinny feels. Keep off that t-bone steak those Turkish, Spanish, or Italian waiters offer you on the street.

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I was twisting and turning when I read Vogue’s review of Bouchra Jarrar. See: “Bouchra Jarrar is an exceptional creature indeed: one of the very few French talents to have emerged in the past few seasons, and certainly the only woman.” I beg to differ. Look at this collection, supposedly a couture collection. Call me a murderer, but this collection would feel more at home in a Hennes & Mauritz shop-at-home catalogue, rather than in couture sphere. After ten years as Nicolas Ghesquière’s assistant at Balenciaga, Jarrar worked for Christian Lacroix before his business failed, and then decided it was time to speak up for herself. Working with such talents, one would think she had some more brains, than to create a cheap, texture-less, boring, collection of immense failure. I will agree with Vogue when it comes to her pedigree in a seamstress point of view, her seams are good, but how can that account for the shapeless, but practical designs.

“Force, elegance, and continuity,” is how she described a collection in which she added pantsuits in English menswear-tailoring fabric and knitwear to her growing line of dresses—what Vogue calls, and I quote “the sort of thing which carries that inimitably Parisian quiet sence of quality and good taste.” Please tell me, when did Parisian style become that of H&M? Please… Another quote: “She branched into more color and pattern, injecting shots of electric blue and black-and-white stripes to the monochrome palette she began with.” Yet again, please… She never left the ways of monochrome designs. She does not belong to the realm of the new generation of modern luxury.

If you read this, Bouchra, I’m sorry to be frank, but someone has to. Either you sit down with yourself to figure out a new way of thinking, or you’ve got nothing in this industry to contribute with. Maybe H&M needs a ned head designer. You’d ace it.

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These are dark times, Ann. I’ve seen a lot of leather and dark tones since NYFW in feb. I really like the Diesel Black Gold collection, but Ann Demeulemeester surprised me big time! Loads of details, cool cuts, both simple and over-the-top designs, patterns, knit patterns, texture. I think Ann’s got it all.

Look #1: Great cut, innovative collar design, a lot of texture with the belt and something that looks like fur under it. Love the wrinkled leather gloves.

Look #2: Conservative cut, light fabrics, pulling off the waistcoat.

Look #1: Great details on the coat, tasseling leather details. A rough version of Chanel’s skirt suit.

Look #2: Fur coat by the looks of.

Look #1: Draped dress. Love it! Look #2: Love the zigzag details on the jacket, funky looking belt, loads of leather. Look #3: LOVE the zigzag knit sweater. Look #4: Not my cup of tea.

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Hanneli Mustaparta @Lincoln Center

Susie Bubble @Lincoln Center

Carolina Herrera @Lincoln Center

Random guy @Lincoln Center

Anna Wintour and Bee Shaffer during Prabal Gurung @Lincoln Center

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One sentence is needed to explain my appreciation over these three collection, respectively from Dries Van Noten, Viktor & Rolf and Louis Vuitton, all Fall 2011 menswear collections.

The one sentence: The old, the new and the boring.

Right, so lets start with the old: Dries Van Noten. I’m very disappointed. I’ve seen it all before. The jackets, coats. Dries is talking about wanting something glamorous without it being feminine. Well, job not well done, you’re fired. Anything new at all? Hmm, a simple change to the design of the collar. Nothing to rejoice for.

The new is of course Louis Vuitton. Yes, it is mr. Obvious. If you ask me, Louis Vuitton always comes up with something innovative. Innovative doesn’t necessarily mean good looking, something you’d wear, but it’s unseen. It’s like wanting to see who’s beneath the mask of Darth Vader, only you know you’ll never, and then one day you actually get to see his face. I was surprised in every way, from the cut to the design.

And last but not least, the boring. When I first saw this collection, I thought sports attire from H&M. Seriously. I’m sorry Viktor, I’m sorry Rolf, but you kind of failed for fall this year. I don’t want to wear sloppy or baggy pants and a vest for fall, I’m looking for something in between the lines of Dries Van Noten and Louis Vuitton.

Remember guys, these are my opinions, and you come here to see what the cruel reality for a designer is. I’m sure I’ll get shot for being so honest one day, but this is what I do, this is why designers invite me to their shows during fashion week. They hope to make it to the next level. If I slaughter, I slaughter hard. Anna Wintour, look out, the Ice King is in town.

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Oslo Fashion Week tries so hard to live up to the standards of the international fashion weeks, but is, nor will never be as good as for example New York, Paris or Milan.

And today, I was even more shocked. Oslo Fashion Week officially stated that fur is forbidden on the catwalk, and that the OFW-scene is a fur free zone. Blimey! ”Look at me, I’m trendy for wearing fake fur, and I’m wearing it just because celebs are payed for being against real fur!”

READ UP ASSHOLES, stop this stupidity!

I can’t say how tired I am of this discussion. /fyl (fuckyourlife)

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So, a few days ago, Hermès showed their S/S 2011 menswear collection by designer Véronique Nichanian. I got really exited when I first saw the collection, the whiteness really worked for me. It screams “I’m a summer outfit, WEAR ME NOW!”

The incredible whiteness of the outfits that opened and closed the show to the incredible lightness of a coat, a jacket, and windbreaker cut from a material called “technical madras”—so fine it was almost sheer. Then there were the shorts, the sandals, the summer skins, and the requisite accent of intense color (here a green that Nichanian called mint, but was more emerald).

“Lightweight” pants, white of course, with a Hermèsque cardigan and scarf. There’s a brown belt hiding under there, but I can’t make a statement on something I can’t see clearly.

Again, white subpart topped off with a cardigan and a sweater, both in earth tones. I really dig this look! <3

I’m gonna need to get me a pair of these pants. Personally, I wouldn’t wear white pants, but that’s simply because I would spill something on them. These brown toned pants are perfect for me. I also love this sports coat. The tie screams Burberry to me, not Hermès.

And of course the designer, Véronique Nichanian!

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